01.01.70

From Gucci’s Nonconformist grunge to John Richmond’s rock ‘n’ rotate attitude and Etro’s feathers, fashionistas were treated Monday to a reinterpretation of menswear classics for autumn-winter 2012.
Gucci architect Frida Giannini came up with “a vocabulary of intellectual frill for new rebels” inspired by Austrian-born actor Helmut Berger, she said, dubbing the effect “Visconti Grunge” after Berger’s director and colleague Luchino Visconti.
The collection features oversized, destructured coats, yachtswoman’s jackets cinched in the back with big metal buttons, all in rich materials: velvet, British textiles and silk prints.
Momentary, close-fitting jackets make for a dynamic silhouette, with cautious embroidery or prints of roses and irises — black on midnight smutty, maroon on golden brown.
Injecting a rock element was a old-fogeyish leather jacket paired with biker boots, or for really taxing guys, a black rapper-style coat of sheepskin and beaver.
Source: San Francisco Luxury News